Thimpu to Paro

12 April 2011
Our target for the day was Paro Monastery. We had seen pics of this structure and it deserved a visit. One wakes up early and fresh in the hills. It might be due to the crisp and clear mountain air. Also, the early sunrise helps. We did wake up early but not early enough to catch the bus to Paro. The last one leaves at 8 AM. At 8:30 we roamed the streets. None of the shops were open. All were to open at 9 AM only.
But still, a roadside tea shop provided tea. One of the dishes kept at the counter looked attractive and was ordered for breakfast along with sweet bun. The owner was surprised saying that it was beef for lunch. We didnt mind. Bun and beef for breakfast along with a distinctive taste of tea. That should keep us healthy while hiking to the monastery.
We went around to the taxi stand. One of the drivers approached us and charged us 1050 Nu. The amount was right for 7 people. Since we were 5, he took us down to the bus stand to pick up more passengers. A friend of the driver came around and we negotiated a deal of 2100 Nu that included sight seeing. We were told that sight seeing at Paro costs a minimum of 700 Nu. We took the deal and changed vans. Versas are in plenty here.
The road to Paro is a breeze. Again, we were hit by our lack of motorcycles. Our guide was a superb person. Very knowledgable too. He told us about the government and the King. The King has the final word and the government cannot challenge that. He is only 30 years old and very citizen-friendly. We also came across the Paro airstrip. The pilots must be surely highly skilled to manouver huge aircrafts in that narrow space and a short airstrip. Paro is a wonderful town. We went another 4-5 kms to the starting point of our hike. The monastery was visible from below, high above in the mountains.
And the hike started. In no time, we were gasping and panting for breath. We claim to ride hundreds of kms without getting tired, but a minute of hike is enough to weaken us. Nilu was the slowest, although he claims it was due to his snap-taking tendencies. Dutta gave a good start. He was all dressed in Nat Geo pullover and with a camera hanging on his neck, he looked the part. But soon, age caught up with him(here's the leak). Even Gyan overtook him. I guess it must have been due to the fact he claims that he is underweight. Underweight means he hasnt touched 100 yet. Doley used to be a hard trekker. But with his paunch all swelled up, his pace had dropped. I was in the lead powered by my BoP Tee. All those days in the gym helped.
There were few tourists on the trail. At the mid point theres a water pipe. The water running is drinkable and very tasteful. This place also offers a view of the monastery ahead. It looked more spectacular than before. I also met a British and a Canadian tourist. The Canadian women claimed she was Punjabi. I found it hard to believe and then she showed me her nose pin. She is a travel writer and trips India back and forth. She runs a website breathedreamgo.com and when I looked at the site, she loves our country much more than we do it ourselves. Something to be learnt for all of us.
As we regrouped, we sat at the Takshang Cafeteria for tea and biscuits. We thought of having lunch here, but when the bill for tea came, 360 Nu, we passed. Now began the second leg. This was easier than the first leg as you watch the destination coming closer and closer. We all grouped for a pic with the structure in the background. Another flight of stairs led to a cave. Doley, Gyan and I took the stairs to see the meditating cave. The way down is scary. When we reached the gates of the monastery, all the cameras were surrendered and we were frisked.
The Royal Bhutan Army manages the tourist traffic inside the monastery. They also act as guides giving complete information. The soldiers were cheerful men. But, one statement struck me. He asked if anyone of us was Pakistani. This is a downright offensive statement.
The soldier guided us along the monastery showing us the treasure rock, the sun and the moon impressions, the wishing thumb impression. He kept urging us to see everything as it would be, most probably, a once in a lifetime experience. He even mocked Dutta asking if he was feeling healthy. Dutta was in pain. As if our needling wasnt enough, here was a soldier of the Royal Bhutan Army mocking him too. Monasteries have a different sort of air in them. As soon as you enter one, you soak in the calmness and peace. You feel cleansed. The soldier told us how the large Guru Padmasambhava statue was brought to the monastery by one person. You ought to have strong devotion to lift such weight to such heights. We were carrying nothing and still had to stop frequently. It was a divine experience.
After clicking a snap with the Armyman, we started our way back. The way down was much easier. I was halfway down quickly with the help of Metal in my ears. I reached the point where there were few memento sellers, all females. They asked if any foreign tourists were still up there at the monastery. I said No. While they were packing I experienced some of Bhutan's Women's Liberation. They began flirting, pointing at the other and saying, "she wants to be your girlfriend", "Balle Balle", etc. I replied in affirmative to everything. I loved that country even more.
The second half of the journey was covered even sooner. It had taken us a total of 5 hours to the monastery and back. Earlier, our cab driver had told us that being youthful, we would be able to climb up in an hour and descend even sooner. So much for the youth. On the way back he took us the long way round so that we could have a better view of the airport. It looked splendid from the mountains around it.
As we reached back to Thimphu, he took us to the huge Buddha statue that provided a panoramic view of the city. Unfortunately, that place was closed. But though we didnt get a good view of the city, we got an overview of the city's youngsters. The road to the viewpoint is covered with vehicles with couples dating in and out of them. It seems this was their Bandstand or Buddha Garden(pun intended).
We reached back to the market where the cab driver dropped us. He had also suggested that if we want to take the bus to Phuentsholing the next day, we should purchase the ticket early. We began shopping for souvenirs. It took longer for the married folks to shop, obviously. Dutta was the quickest with everything done and over with at the first shop, to which we returned an hour later to finish ours. We also saw key chains of the Bhutanese good luck charm. This has to be seen to be believed. Then Dutta went to do further shopping and bought a razor. When the Royal Bhutan Army says, you have to listen. He had decided to clean up after the critical comment from the soldier up on the monastery. But he forgot to buy shaving cream. He compensated for it by using face wash.
Tuesdays are dry days in Bhutan, in a strict manner. We ordered room service for the snacks. 6 plates of fried pork and 2 plates of fried chicken. This was our last night in Bhutan. The manager asked us if we were going to drink. His gesture was truly memorable. "take it to the room". We opened the premium K5 tonight. Its smooth. Courier was packed for the way back.
I should mention here that Nilu keeps the empty bottles as trophy. This should be remembered as it went on to become the most memorable moment of this trip.
When we came down to have dinner, the guys again ordered pork, for themselves, and chicken, for me. By this time, I was done and over with pork. I do like it, but cannot enjoy continuous spells of it.